Mahasthangarh
Mahasthangarh
is the oldest archaeological site in Bangladesh . It
dates back to 700 BCE and was the ancient capital of the Pundra Kingdom .
Mahasthangarh (Bengali: মহাস্থানগড় Môhasthangôṛ) is one of the earliest urban
archaeological sites so far discovered in Bangladesh . The
village Mahasthan in Shibganj thana of Bogra District contains the remains of an ancient
city which was called Pundranagara or Paundravardhanapura in the territory of Pundravardhana A limestone slab bearing six lines inPrakrit in Brahmi script, discovered in 1931,
dates Mahasthangarh to at least the 3rd century BC. The fortified area was in
use till the 18th century AD.
Together with the ancient and medieval
ruins, the mazhar (holy tomb) ofShah Sultan Balkhi Mahisawar built at the site of a Hindu temple is
located at Mahasthangarh. He was a dervish (holy person devoted to Islam) of
royal lineage who came to the Mahasthangarh area, with the objective of
spreading Islam among non-Muslims. He converted the people of the area to Islam
and settled there.
Etymology
Mahasthan means a place that
has excellent sanctity and garh means fort. Mahasthan was first mentioned in a Sanskrit text of the 13th century entitledVallalcharita.
It is also mentioned in an anonymous text Karatoya mahatmya,circumstantially
placed in 12th–13th century. The same text also mentions two more names to mean
the same place – Pundrakshetra, land of the Pundras, and Pundranagara, city of
the Pundras. In 1685, an administrative decree mentioned the place as
Mastangarh, a mixture of Sanskrit and Persianmeaning
fortified place of an auspicious personage. Subsequent discoveries have
confirmed that the earlier name was Pundranagara or Paundravardhanapura, and
that the present name of Mahasthangarh is of later origin.
Geography
Mahasthangarh, the ancient capital of Pundravardhana is located 11 km (6.8 mi)
north of Bogra on
the Bogra-Rangpur highway,
with a feeder road (running along the eastern side of the ramparts of the
citadel for 1.5 km) leading to Jahajghata and site museum. Buses
are available for Bogra fromDhaka and take 4½ hours for the journey
via Bangabandhu Jamuna Bridgeacross the Jamuna River .
Buses are available from Bogra to
Mahasthangarh. Rickshaws are available for local movement. Hired transport is
available at Dhaka / Bogra. Accommodation is
available at Bogra. When
travelling in a hired car, one can return to Dhaka
the same day, unless somebody has a plan to visit Somapura Mahavihara at Paharpur in the district of Naogaon and
other places, or engage in a detailed study.
It is believed that the location for the
city in the area was decided upon because it is one of the highest areas in Bangladesh . The
land in the region is almost 36 metres (118 ft) above sea level, whereas Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh , is
around 6 metres (20 ft) above sea level. Another reason for choosing this
place was the position and size of the Karatoya, which as recently as in the 13th
century was three times wider than Ganges .
Mahasthangarh stands on the red soil of the Barind Tract which is slightly elevated within the
largely alluvium area. The elevation of 15 to 25 metres above the
surrounding areas makes it a relatively flood free physiographic unit.
Discovery
Several personalities contributed to the
discovery and identification of the ruins at Mahasthangarh. Francis Buchanan
Hamilton was the first to locate and visit Mahasthangarh in 1808,
C.J.O’Donnell, E.V.Westmacott, and Baveridge followed. Alexander Cunningham was
the first to identify the place as the capital of Pundravardhana. He visited the site in 1879.
Citadel
The citadel (see map alongside), the
fortified heart of the ancient city, is rectangular in plan, measuring roughly
1.523 kilometres (0.946 mi) long from north to south, and 1.371 kilometres
(0.852 mi) from east to west, with high and wide ramparts in all its
wings. Area of the citadel is approximately 185 ha. The Karatoya, once a mighty river but now a small
stream, flows on its east.
Till the 1920s, when excavations started,
the inside of the citadel was higher than the surrounding areas by over
4 metres and was dotted with several straggling elevated pieces of land.
The rampart looked like a jungle clad mud rampart with forced openings at
several points. The rampart was 11–13 metres (36–43 ft) higher than the
surrounding area. At its south-east corner stood a mazhar (holy tomb). A later
day mosque (built in 1718–19) was also there
At present there are several mounds and
structural vestiges inside the fortifications. Of these a few of note are: Jiat
Kunda (well which, according to legends, has life giving power), Mankalir Dhap
(place consecrated to Mankali), Parasuramer Basgriha (palace of a king named
Parasuram), Bairagir Bhita (palace of a female anchorite), Khodar Pathar Bhita
(place of stone bestowed by God), and Munir Ghon (a bastion). There are some
gateways at different points: Kata Duar (in the north), Dorab Shah Toran (in
the east), Burir Fatak (in the south), and Tamra Dawaza (in the west At the
north-eastern corner there is a flight of steps (a later addition) that goes by
the name of Jahajghata. A little beyond Jahajghata and on the banks of the
Karatoya is Govinda Bhita (a temple dedicated to Govinda). In front of it is
the site museum, displaying some of the representative findings. Beside it is a
rest house.
Suburb
of the citadel
Besides the fortified area, there are
around a hundred mounds spread over an area with a radius of 9 km. (See
map alongside).
Excavations
Systematic archaeological excavation of
Mahasthangarh was first started in 1928–29 under the guidance of K.N.Dikshit of
the Archaeological Survey of India. The areas around Jahajghata, Munir Ghon and
Bairagir Bhita were explored. Excavation was resumed in 1934–36 at Bairagir
Bhita and Govinda Bhita. Excavation was carried out in 1960s around the Mazhar,
Parasuramer Prasad, Mankalir Dhap, Jiat Kunda and in a part of the northern
rampart. In the next phase excavation was carried out sporadically in parts of
the east and north ramparts but the final report is yet to be published. In the
period 1992–98 excavation was conducted in the area lying between Bairagir
Bhita and the gateway exposed in 1991 as a Bangla-Franco joint venture, which
is now in its second phase with excavation around the mazhar in the western
side of the citadel.
Movable
antiquities
Inscriptions: A
4.4 cm x 5.7 cm lime stone slab bearing six lines in Prakrit inBrahmi script, discovered accidentally by a
day labourer in 1931 was an important find. The text appears to be a royal
order of Magadh, possibly during the rule of Asoka. It dates the antiquity of
Mahasthangarh to 3rd century BC. An Arabic inscriptional slab of 1300–1301
discovered in 1911–12 mentions the erection of a tomb in honour of Numar Khan,
who was a Meer-e-Vahar (lieutenant of the naval fleet). A Persian inscriptional
slab of 1718–19 records the construction of a mosque during the reign of the
Mughal emperor Farrukhshiyar.
Coins: Silver
punch marked coins are datable to a period between the 4th century BC and the
1st–2nd century AD. Some uninscribed copper cast coins have been found. Two
Gupta period coins have been reported from a nearby village named Vamanpara. A
number of coins belonging to the sultans of 14th–15th century and British East India Company have been found.
Ceramics: Mostly
represented by a vast number of shards.
Sculpture: A
5th century Buddha stone sculpture recovered from Vasu Vihara, a Lokesvara
stone sculpture showing blending of Visnu and Avalokitsvara, salvaged from
neighbouring Namuja village, a number sand stone door-frames, pillars and
lintels (datable to 5th–12th century), numerous Buddha bronze sculpture datable
to 10th–11th century, a terracotta Surya discovered at Mankalir Bhita, and
numerous other pieces.
Terracotta Plaques: A
number of terracotta plaques have been discovered.
Many of these are on display in the site museum, which is open
Sunday to Thursday summer:10 am to 6 pm, winter:9 am to
5 pm. Recess:1–2 pm, Friday recess is from 12.30 to 2.30, opens at
9 am in summer, other timings same. Summer timings 1 April to 30
September, winter timings 1 October to 30 March Books on Mahasthangarh and other
archaeological sites in Bangladesh
(in Bengali and English) are available at the ticket counter for the site
museum.
Highlights
of some excavated sites
Inside the citadel
Bairagir Bhita: Constructed/
reconstructed in four periods: 4th–5th century AD, 6th–7th century, 9th–10th
century, and 11th century. Excavations have revealed impoverished base ruins resembling
temples. Two sculptured sand stone pillars have been recovered.
Khodarpathar Bhita: Some
pieces of stone carved with transcendent Buddha along with devotees in anjali
(kneeling with folded hands) recovered.
Parasuramer Prasad: Contains
remains of three occupation periods – 8th century AD findings include stone
Visnupatta ofPala period, 15th- 16th century findings
include some glazed shreds of Muslim origin, and the third period has revealed
two coins of the British East
India Company issued in 1835 and
1853.
Mankalir Dhap: terracotta
plaques, bronze Ganesha, bronze Garuda etc. were discovered. Base ruins of a
15-domed mosque (15th–16th century) was revealed.
Bangla-Franco joint venture: Excavations
have revealed 18 archaeological layers, ranging from 5th century BC to 12th
century AD, till virgin soil at a depth of around 17 m.
Outside the citadel
Govinda Bhita: Situated
185 m north-east of Jahajghata and opposite the site museum. Remains dated
from 3rd century BC to 15th century AD. Base remains of two temples have been
exposed.
Totaram Panditer Dhap: Situated
in the village Vihara, about 6 km north-west of the ciradel. Structural
remains of a damaged monastery have been exposed.Narapatir Dhap: Situated in the village Basu Vihara,
1.5 km north-west of Totaram Panditer Dhap. Base remains of two
monasteries and a temple have been exposed. Cunningham identified this place as
the one visited by Xuanzang (Hiuen
Tsang) in the 7th century AD. Gokul Medh: Also known as Behular Basar Ghar or
Lakshindarer Medh, situated in the village Gokul, 3 km to the south of the
citadel, off the Bogra-Rangpur road, connected by a narrow motorable road about
1 km. Excavations in 1934–36 revealed a terraced podium with 172
rectangular blind cells. It is dated 6th–7th century. Local mythology
associates it with legendary Lakshmindara-Behula.
The village Gokul also has several other mound Kansr Dhap has been excavated.
Skandher Dhap: Situated
in village Baghopara on the Bogra-Rangpur road, 3.5 km to the south of the
citadel, a sandstone Kartika was found and structural vestiges of a
damaged building were revealed. It is believed to be the remains of Skandha
Mandira (temple consecrated to Kartika), mentioned in Karatoya mahatmya, as well as Kalhan's Rajatarangin, written in 1149–50. There also are
references to Skandhnagara as a suburb of Pundranagara. Baghopara village has
three other mounds.
Khulnar Dhap: Situated
in village Chenghispur, 700 m west of the north-west corner of the citadel
has revealed remains of a temple. The mound is named after Khullana, wife of Chand Sadagar From the present findings it can
be deduced that there was a city called Pundravardhana at Mahasthangarh with a vast suburb
around it, on all sides except the east, where the once mighty Karatoya used to
flow. It is evident that the suburbs of Pundravardhana extended at least to
Baghopara on the south-west, Gokul on the south, Vamanpara on the west, and
Sekendrabad on the north.However, the plan of the city and much of its history
are still to be revealed.
Bhimer Jangal This
well-known embankment starts from the north-east corner of Bogra town and
proceeds northwards for about 30 miles to a marshy place called Damukdaher
bit, under police station Govindaganj (Rangpur District) and it is said, goes
oil to Ghoraghat. It is made of the red earth of the locality and retains at
places even now a height of 20 feet above the level of the country. There
is a break ill it of over three miles from Daulatpur (north west of Mahasthan-garh) to Hazaradighi
(south-west, of it). About a mile south of Hazradighi. the stream Subil
approaches the jangal and runs alongside it down to Bogra town.
Some people think that the Subil is a moat
formed by digging the earth for the jangal but as there is no embankment on the
northern reach of the Subil now called the Ato nala. which merges in the
Kalidaha bil; north of Mahasthan-garh O'Donnell was probably right in saying
that the Subil represents the western of the two branches into which the
Karatoya divided above Mahasthan.
On the Bogra-Hazradighi section of thee
jaligal, there are two cross embankments running down to the Karatoya, about
2 miles and 4 miles respectively north of Bogra town and there is a
diagonal embankment connecting these cross bonds and then running along the
Karatoya until it meets the main embankment near Bogra.
This jangal or embankment appears to have
been of a military character, thrown up to protect the country on its east. The
break roar Mahasthan may be due to the embankment having been washed away or to
the existence of natural protection by the bit.
The Bhima to whom the embankment is
ascribed may be the Kaivarta chief of the eleventh century who according to the
Ramcharitam ruled over Varendra in succession to his father Rudraka and uncle
Divyoka, who had ousted king Mahipala II of the Pala, dynasty. Bhima in his
turn was defeated in battle and billed by Ramapala. Mahipala's son.
Jogir Bhaban South
west of Bagtahali (beyond Chak Bariapara) and some 3 miles west of the
khetlal road is a settlement of the Natha sect of Saiva sannyasis, known as
Yogir-bhavan, forming the eastern section of Arora village. An account of this
settlement is given by Beveridge, J.:1.S.T., 1878; p. 94. It occupies
about so, bighas of land and forms the headquarters of the sect. of which there
are branches at Yogigopha and Gorakh-kui, both in the Dinajpur District,
the.former in its south-west part some 5 miles west of Paharpur, J.A.S.B.1875,
p. 189, and the latter in its north-west part some 4 miles west of
Nekmardan.
The shrines at Yogir-bhavan are situated in
the south-west corner of an en¬closure or-math. One of them called
Dharmma-dungi, bears a brick inscription, reading scrvva-siddha sana 1148 Sri Suphala ...
(the year =1741 A.D.). 'In front of it is another shrine called
`Gadighar,' where a fire is kept burn at all hours. Outside the enclose are
four temples, dedicated respectively to Kalabhai¬rava, Sarvamangala Durga and
Gorakshanatha. The Kalabhairava temple contains a diva linga and bears a brick
inscription reading Sri Ramasiddha sana
1173 sala (=1766 A.D.) ample Sri Jayanatha Nara-Narayana. The
Sarva¬mangala temple contains three images of Hara-Gauri, one of
Mahishamardini, a fragment of an Ashta-matrika slab, a fragment of a
three-faced female figure probably Ushnishavijava (Sadhanamala; II. pl. XIV)
and a four-armed female figure playing on a vina (evidently Sarasvati, but
worshipped here as Sarva¬ mangala). Over the entrance is a brick inscription
reading 1089 Meher Natha sadaka sri Abhirama Mehetara (the year
=1681 A.D.). In the Durga temple is a stone image of Chamunda, and in the
Gorakshanatha one, a Siva lihga. There are three brick built samadhis near the
latter temple.
Arora South-west
of the Dadhisugar and standing on the Masandighi, in Arora village; is Salvan
Rajar bari
referred to under Baghahali. This Silvan may possibly be the same as king
Salavahan, son of Sahila-deva of the Chamba inscription who won the title of
Kari-ghata-varsha (= hunjara-ghata-varsha ?) (R.C. Majumdar, vange
kambojadhikara,' vanga-rani, Chaitara, 1330.B.S.p. 251, ind. Ant,
XVII.pp. 7–13). Beveridge refers to this mound in JA.S.B., 1878, p 95.This
name of Sahila seems, to occur again in Sahiladitya lakshmam in v. 10 of the
Silimpllr inscription (Ep. Ind, XIII, p. 291). If this identification is
correct, then the word kaunjanraghatacarshcna in the Bangarh stone inscription
(Gauda-raja-mala, p. 35) is really the title or virudha of the Gudapati of
the Kumboja family and not the date of the inscription.
Teghar North
of Chandnia hat the road skirts the bil and comes to Teghar village Which juts
out into the bil 'Near about here are several mounds; such as Naras¬patir dhap.
Kacher Angina (or glazed courtyard, a term applied to many ruins in these
parts) etc. The biggest of these mounds, Mangal-nather dhap, (Fig. 6) is
situated close to the point, from which a road branches off to Bihar . It is said that terra-cotta plaques as well as
stone images were found at this site, but were all consigned to the
neighbouring dighi.
Rojakpur Proceeding
westward along the road from Gokul to Haripur, we pass into the western arm of
the latter village, already referred to. and meet the Bogra¬ Khetlal road near
the Chandnia hat. West of Haripur and south of the Somrai bil is the village of Rojakpur , into which, as already stated,
the elevated ground from Chandnia hat extends. On this ground are two mounds
called respectively Chandbhita. (probably referring to the Manasa legend) and
Dhanbhandar. A little further west is another mound called Singhinath Dhap.
Threats
to Mahasthangarh
In a 2010 report titled Saving Our Vanishing Heritage, Global Heritage Fund identified Mahasthangarh as one of 12
worldwide sites most "On the Verge" of irreparable loss and damage,
citing insufficient management (poor water drainage in particular) and looting
as primary causes
Anecdote
There is a local legend that Shah Sultan Balkhi Mahisawar arrived at Pundravardhana in the garb of a fakir (mystic holy
pedlar of Islamic philosophy) riding a fish. (Mahisawar is Sanskrit-Persian
word meaning a person who rides a fish). He came from Balkh
in Afghanistan
with a retinue. The period of his arrival is variably put at 5th century AD,
11th century AD and 17th century AD. At that time there was a king named
Parasuram with his seat and palace in Mahasthangarh. Mahisawar requested Parasuram
for a piece of land to spread his prayer mat on which he could pray. The
request was granted but the prayer mat started expanding as soon as it was laid
on the ground. When the prayer mat reached the area around the palace
bewildered Parasuram declared war. In the beginning the battle seemed to be
favouring Parasuram. A scavenger Harapala informed Mahisawar that it was
difficult to defeat the royal troops because of the pool called Jiat Kunda. A
dead soldier bathed in the waters of Jiat Kunda came back to life. On knowing
this Mahisawar asked a kite to drop a piece of beef in Jiat Kunda. When this
was done, the pool lost its powers. The royal troops were on the verge of
defeat. The commander of the royal troops, Chilhan, with a large number of his
followers, went over to Mahisawar. Thereafter Parasuram and many members of the
royal family committed suicide. There are many variations of this anecdote,
some of which are sold in Bengali booklets in and around Mahasthangarh/Pundravardhana.
Some
antiquity comparisons
Mahasthangarh dates back to at least 3rd century BC
and is acknowledged as the earliest city-site so far discovered in Bangladesh . Somapura Mahavihara at Paharpur in Naogaon District was once the biggest Buddhist
monastery south of the Himalayas . It dates
from the 8th century AD. Mainamati ruins
in Comilla District date back to 6th–13th centuries AD In neighbouring West Bengal, the ruins of Pandu Rajar Dhibi on the banks of the Ajay River in Bardhaman
district date back to
2000 BC. However, this recent archaeological discovery has not yet been
properly studied by outside experts and specialists in this field, and as such
the historical value of many of the statements must be considered as uncertain. The ruins at Chandraketugarh in 24
Parganas South and Rajbadidanga
in Murshidabad district date back to the early years of the
Christian era.